One easy way to get over your jet lag.
We woke up ecstatic; the plan was to walk to the Eiffel Tower in our spiffy duds and have a relaxing lunch at Le Jules Verne. The weather was sunny and clear, perfect for enjoying the restaurant's panoramic views. I wasn't aware that eating at a Michelin star restaurant was on my bucket list, but it is now. The visit was my friend Leslie's idea, and I was happy to go along.
For those who haven't been, a reservation takes you to the front of Eiffel's long lines and into the restaurant. While we were navigating to the entrance, we got separated; a bit of frantic texting got me to where I needed to be and into the tower leg we went. The tower legs are awkward interior spaces not meant to be receiving rooms. But the designer did a fantastic job; the area welcomes you in with busts and quotes from the author Jules Verne and the engineer Gustave Eiffel. The two lead you to a glass elevator that lifts you to the second level, 403.5 feet above the ground. A beautiful or nervous experience, depending on how you feel about heights. The very tall operator will take your picture.
Leslie and I, in the elevator to the restaurant.
Our view of the Champs de Mars, looking over Sacre Coeur.
The restaurant consists of three rooms, each with exceptional views of the Champs de Mars, Quai Branly, or Trocadero. The simple decor of white and gold allows you to concentrate on the scenery, the food, and each other. Leslie reserved a table looking over the Champs de Mars, with a view of Sacre Coeur located in Montmartre, Paris's highest point and artist district. It was magnificent.
The meal starts with treats from the chef known for molecular gastronomy, an innovative way of cooking that combines culinary techniques with science. You can see a short video explanation of it here.
A fun fact about molecular gastronomy is that the food rarely resembles what it started out as. I no longer remember the flavor of the red and yellow canapés, but the ones that look like they're wearing hats are reconfigured mushrooms.
I had a ravioli with fresh herbs, sheep cheese, and a frothy garlic cream for the first course, which is left. On the right is Leslie's thinly sliced sea bass flavored with vanilla, green peas, and mint and decorated with tiny white elderflowers. We oohed and awed over these little works of art until our last bite.
When I was editing the pictures I realized that they had rolled herbs into the pasta dough creating green stripes.
A small bowl of asparagus soup (also frothy) was served between the first and second course that we thought lovely. We were animated about everything and paid attention to our surroundings. With every item brought to the table, the wait staff would explain what it was and then quietly depart to a space where they could see and respond when needed.
For lunch, Leslie had cod, cooked with kalamata olive powder and fried capers, in a clear bouillabaisse consommé. The presentation was as beautiful as it was delicious. I had a rib eye steak with pepper sauce and three fries, not nearly as stunning as Leslie's but perfectly cooked and scrumptious. Served medium rare, cooked through but still primarily red in the center. A generous portion that I couldn't finish.
A fresh and frothy asparagus soup.
The frothy food was pretty cool, but the best experience with molecular gastronomy came with dessert. I'm so glad we'd ordered the same thing and enjoyed the same culinary adventure. We chose a dessert described on the menu as:
Strawberry
Crispy Meringue, Elderflower Zéphyr, Thin Rhubarb Tart.
The thin rhubarb tart was my least favorite; a bit too sweet. The crispy meringue and the elderflower zéphyr are totally different stories. Crispy meringue refers to the edible sugar cup containing a strawberry puree and airy topping. It was exquisite. The mind-blowing taste was the elderflower zéphyr. It came with directions not to nibble but to eat whole. I was excited and ate mine first. Enclosed in the warmth of your mouth, the super thin sheet of jelly melts, and you experience an explosion of strawberry goodness. The fresh, fruity, green, and slightly floral elderflower flavor profile comes up at the end. Leslie, watching, said, "I wished I had a photograph of your face." I would have liked to have seen my face at that moment too. It was incredible and will be the lasting memory of my first visit to Le Jules Verne and Paris.
The experience isn't only about beautiful mouthwatering food; service plays an important role. Part of being able to spend a whole afternoon having lunch
Enjoying conversation over a perfect lunch.
One of these would have been enough, but I’m happy to have tasted all three.
(3 hours) is the tempo of service. Food arrives in a timely fashion such that the interlude between courses stays relaxed and never turns into one of waiting. You're attended to but never hovered over. Done on the second day of our trip, this was a perfect plan to get to know Paris and relax while recovering from jet lag.